From vitello tonnato to vitel toné: the dishes that crossed the ocean
The cooking of Piedmont, Liguria and the south travelled on the ships and was transformed on tables across the Americas. A tour of the favourites.
Argentina’s holiday vitel toné is Piedmont’s vitello tonnato, with extra sauce and served cold in December. The fainá eaten on top of pizza in Buenos Aires is Genoese farinata, and gnocchi on the 29th arrived with the habit of ending the month with a cheap, filling dish.
In Brazil, São Paulo pizza and the capeletti of Rio Grande do Sul tell the same story: recipes adapted to local ingredients without losing their original names.